Leather Shoes

Leather is a fascinating material. Every pore and every wound tells the story of an animal’s life.Since the beginning of time, humankind has used leather for a variety of purposes, one of the most common being in the manufacture of shoes. In fact, different animals produce leather with different properties. This means that there are many types of shoe leather, which can be quite confusing and unclear for most people.

You are lucky though. In this article you will find information about the most common “Types of Shoe Leather” along with some more exotic ones. As usual, it will be rather large! Get some coffee, use the table of contents to navigate and get ready to explore the amazing world of leatherworking.

Table of Contents show

WHY SHOULD YOU CARE?

Apart from the construction of a shoe, the other most important aspect is the choice and quality of leather. Leather is basically the skin of different animals with different properties. Each leather goes through many steps to get the final result. Some of them are best suited for rougher use and abrasion resistance, while others are more delicate and suitable for more formal occasions.

At least a general understanding of the characteristics of most types of shoe leather will help you make better and more accurate decisions in the future. Not only that, but you’ll learn a few things along the way!

The oldest shoe in the world

Did you know that the oldest shoe in the world is 5500 years old? started using leather to protect themselves from the elements of nature

Our feet and hands are the first to lose heat, although they help maintain a balanced temperature.It was essential to cover these areas.

Found during excavations in Armenia in 2010, equivalent to her US 7 for a woman of today’s size. A very primitive version of the total cut made from a single piece of cowhide and a shoelace lace. For more information, see National’s Geographic article on the subject.

Shoes have definitely evolved since then, with newer styles being considered classics these days.Take, for example, the Chelsea boot or the Monk strap. However, they all share one trait: the core style remains largely the same. Not much has changed since the 100-year-old Oxford shoe and the current version. At least in my opinion!

However, in the age of consumerism and fast fashion, the quality of mainstream shoes has declined precipitously. That’s why we try to educate people to invest in quality shoes that will last and look great for years.

Tip: Some sandals are over 7000 years old. So this is about leather shoes.

Types of Leather

Like most things in life, leather comes in variations or ‘grades’. The origin of the leather also greatly affects the quality, but that’s for another time. Generally, the best leather is made from parts of the animal that are less susceptible to damage.

Usually this includes the back, but the worst part comes from the head and legs or abdomen.Stretch marks and imperfections aren’t the best, right?

Leather Quality

Leather Quality at a Glance | Care Supply

Don’t let anyone fool you, here’s a quick rundown of the most common leather qualities.

DISCLAIMER: You may notice that suede is not included in this list because it deserves its own section later.

Full Grain Leather

Full Grain Leather is the highest quality leather at the top of the chain. It refers to the outer part of an animal’s skin just below the hair. The term “perfect” means polished or unpolished, a process used to remove imperfections and dirt. Leather’s dense porosity prevents it from retaining moisture, but it also adds thickness.

Few parts of the leather are suitable for full-grain leather, except for the thickness, which makes the processing more expensive and difficult for the leatherworker. However, full-grain leather is a durable material that develops a nice patina over time and can last for years with proper care.

TOP GRAIN LEATHER

Basically, top grain leather is similar to full grain leather, but with a twist. A few millimeters are scraped off the top and lightly sanded to remove imperfections.

This means it is thinner, less durable and more consistent while retaining the general characteristics of whole grains. It can be said that it is a downgrade version without the former “individuality”. It has a smooth surface and is good at picking up dirt, but poor in breathability and patina.

Top Grain’s main problem is durability

Because it is thin, it is not the best material for bags and shoes. Is it an item that you want to keep on hand for a long time?

Avoid.

BONDED LEATHER

BONDED LEATHER is the ungodly residue left under the barrel when the modified grain rubs against the bottom of the barrel. It’s not even leather, it’s a by-product. Leftovers and scraps only. I shredded them up, put them on fiberboard, sprayed them with copious amounts of glue and polyurethane, and voila

They have an erratic brew of terrible quality that lasts as long as a slice of cheddar in the sun. Oh, and it smells like the food they gave us in the military, too.

Shoe Leather Types — Popular to Exotic

The most commonly used leather is calfskin. However, horses, goats, and exotic animals are also becoming increasingly popular. Let’s go through them one by one! Don’t forget to refill your coffee cup!

Calfskin

Calfskin is the most commonly used material for high quality men’s shoes. As the name suggests, it comes from the skin of a young calf, usually over 3 months old (usually he is 6–12 months old). Another name for calfskin is ‘parchment’ which comes from Latin. Interestingly, North American calves are different from European calves. The skin of the latter is usually doubled in size and of better quality by breed standards and usage.

Dress Shoe Guide — Types of Dress Shoes and 5 Must-Haves Antonio Meccariello Oxfords Antonio Meccariello Oxfords

Antonio Meccariello Calfskin Oxfords | Learn more about him

Very fine and flawless leather, most fine dress shoes is the best material for The wood grain is particularly fine, but it is very strong and flexible. This is because calves have a denser fiber structure that is stronger than regular cowhide and older animals. The thickness of calfskin is usually about 1 to 1

Depending on the model, you can wear up to 10 pairs of shoes with a skinny 2mm.

Calfskin is prone to scuffing and scratching, but with the right polish and buffing these blemishes (even if they are not too deep) can be hidden and will produce a nice patina down the road. I can do it. It’s fairly easy to dye, so there are many color options and finishes.Vanishing and an aniline finish ensure a high gloss. It also adapts very well to the foot which is important for comfort.

It doesn’t require much maintenance, but it is important to maintain it by polishing it so that it does not dry out or crack. If you want quality formal shoes, or just want a good pair, Calf His leathers are a safe bet.

Update June 5, 2019: Thanks to Jesper at Shoegazing for the correction. You can spawn up to 10 pairs of skins (instead of 3 he used to) and 3–4 custom/premium shoemakers.

1.1 Boxcalf

Boxcalf is now the term for high quality calfskin (or fine black his calf). However, the term comes from Joseph Box, a shoemaker in 1890. Luxury brand Hermès uses this high-quality material to produce vintage bags. Another description means that the calfskin is tanned with chrome salts. So it can be very confusing and kind of a marketing term

For most business occasions, Boxcalf is the highest quality calfskin.

Tip: If you really want to know about boxcalf, check out this great post by Justin Fitzpatrick.

1.2 Calf

The calf is very similar to the calf, only slightly older (3–6 months). As with older animals, the leather is slightly rougher and less smooth than regular calfskin.

Fun Fact: Calfskin was an alternative to paper before it became popular in the Middle Ages.

COWHIDE

There is not much difference between calfskin and cowhide. Both are made from the same animal, but cowhide is made from old cows and is a by-product of the meat industry. This is a reasonable benchmark for other types of shoe leather.

More precisely, cowhide is thicker (approximately 1.6 to 2.5 mm) but undergoes a similar tanning process to calfskin. Cowhide’s thickness, enhanced strength, and fiber nature make it the perfect material for work boots and rough-use shoes.

2nd

1 APACHE

A very interesting type of cowhide is Apache. Also known as Distressed or Crazyhorse, this leather is treated with waxes and oils to give it a very classic ‘aged’ look even in new condition. Waxing makes the structure waterproof, but also protects it from wear and tear. When these types of shoes are scraped off, the protective wax layer is hit first. . This leather is perfect for utility boots and outdoor use.

2.2 Bullhide

A fat delinquent who protrudes from the cow’s shoulders. He is very thick and sturdy, which protects his legs from danger. Apparently, tanning fairly often shrinks to bring out wrinkles and imperfections.

2.3 DEERTTAND

Deerttanned leather is cowhide that has been treated to provide the best quality of cowhide and deerskin. This type of cowhide leather is soft to the touch, has few imperfections and imperfections, and is comfortable to wear, making it a suitable material for boots.

SUEDE

A few years ago, I never thought I would love suede so much. He’s becoming one of my favorite types of shoes as shoe leather for casual shoes, including sneakers.

Remove the hair and cut off the grain to get either the skin splits or just the flesh. By polishing this thick part with a file, it has a soft and thin texture with a unique fluff. This makes them very manageable and perfect for a more casual shoe. Unfortunately, suede is a sponge for water and dirt and is a fairly fragile leather.

Additional information from Jesper Ingevaldsson: Most leathers called suede today are split suedes, then split into two or he three pieces, with tough fibers on one side. “Real” suede is now called Reverse Calf His Suede. Treated with an impregnating spray, not sensitive at all.

Project TWLV Review — Royal Logger Boots in Sand Suede

Project TWLV Royal Logger Boots in Sand Suede

Suede can come from different animals and have different qualities.

Fun Fact: The word suede comes from the French gants des suede, which means Swedish glove.

COW LEATHER

Meat part of cow or veal. Using names like Rawhide, Cow Split, Bush Coat, and Rough Out can be very confusing. Save yourself the trouble, call it cow suede

Calves, like calfskin, produce a softer suede than older cows, but as always can be rougher or thicker due to the process. Suede is probably the softest, especially young lamb suede. It also has a very soft, velvety texture. However, it seems to be much better at fending off the cold and drizzle.

This may come across as children’s suede leather, ie the skin of a young goat.

BUFFALO

Buffalo, bison, or water buffalo are interchangeable terms these days. Some skins came from Africa, others from America and Asia. A good durable choice for durable items such as bags and boots.

Porous and grainy with natural imperfections and 40% higher tensile strength than traditional calfskin. Moreover, it is very comfortable and quite soft.

BAWEGO Weekender Bag Review — Mishiu Academy

Buffalo Leather Duffel Bag

PU LEATHER

Last of the regular shoe leather type he is PU. Not to be confused with pull-ups, PU leather is he one of the few vegan options. So it is not real “leather” but a pure synthetic material such as bonded leather or polyurethane.

Of course, this is very low quality and shouldn’t be on your list unless you are very strict about not exploiting animals. Otherwise, there is no reason to buy PU leather shoes. Low budget? Go to eBay and buy good used shoes for a few bucks.

EXOTIC EXCEPTIONAL LEATHER

Now let’s get some good stuff. A man makes shoes out of everything

Sometimes it’s for function, sometimes it’s for aesthetics. As I was researching and compiling this guide, I was very surprised by some of the entries.

Please refill the coffee.

Alligator Crocodile Leather

To avoid confusion, let’s talk about these fearsome reptiles. Perhaps the closest thing to the age of the dinosaurs, alligators and crocodiles are often synonymous with lavish lifestyles and plentiful funds. It is very important to note that alligators and crocodiles are separate species. But they belong to the same family. Today there are four main species of him that produce different types of shoe leather.

American Alligator

Caiman

Freshwater Crocodile

Saltwater Crocodile

Each has its own characteristics and is difficult to distinguish. They are generally strong and durable, but they are also very difficult to stretch. The leather comes from the rather soft abdomen and the upper part, which is protected by an armor plate made of scales. Both crocodile and crocodile leather are very expensive, but the former is considered to be of much higher quality. It has a high gloss finish and can last for decades with proper care.

Fun Fact: A crocodile’s nose is a pointed V-shape, while an alligator’s nose is a wider U-shape. Dinosaur fan? Google Sarcosuchus

15.1 THE AMERICAN ALLIGATOR

The originator of luxury reptile leather. Weighing about half a ton and growing up to four to five meters long, the American alligator produces high-quality leather for more elegant shoes. Their leather comes primarily from special farms in the southeastern United States.

Their leather is very durable, but softer as it is not as bony as other reptilians. It is often offered in gray and olive green colors, but there are many other colors available. The softness of the leather means it is much easier to work with and finish, making it suitable for making shoes and bags. It has been. It is very shiny and has a very distinct rectangular scale pattern that is not uniform. The umbilical wound is also a way to distinguish between genuine alligator skin and fake reproductions, as it cannot be duplicated. It can be found in both shoes and boots and is easily available at prices over $3000. Carmina makes some great options if you’re on that kind of budget.But they’re big statements, so be prepared.

15.2 THE CAIMAN

Found in Central and South America, the caiman is a smaller cousin to the alligator.

A famous species that gives both the Porsche Cayman and the Cayman Islands its name, the caiman has a wide range of characteristics.

First of all, its size means that each hide is rather small, requiring more hides per item. However, it is much cheaper and more readily available than crocodile or alligator leather. Anyway, they are more expensive than regular calves. Therefore, it is very hard and difficult to process. However, the bony texture of the fur is excellent for those who want to show off their natural patterns in their shoes.The lime scale deposits on the ridges of each scale create this patterned effect and are very receptive to color.

15.3 Saltwater/Freshwater Crocodile

Different species, but I’m not a crocodile expert. However, saltwater crocodiles often come from the Indo-Pacific and Australia, and we know they are a nightmare species. Talking about some monster sizes! However, its freshwater counterpart is native to Africa, and the Nile crocodile is the region’s largest freshwater predator.

Both are hardy carnivores with fairly large hides that are ideal for large items such as upholstered furniture. The pattern is very similar to an alligator to the untrained eye, with minor differences such as navel markings and evenness of scales. to produce high quality hides.

The famous 1953 Gucci loafer has an option in crocodile leather, and the boot showcases the beauty of all leathers.

Gucci 1953 Crocodile Loafers

Gucci 1953 Crocodile Loafers | Anteaters are long-nosed mammals that feed on ants and termites. It is an exotic and rare leather with unique properties. It is a diamond-shaped tiled scaly leather that is very durable and different from crocodile leather.

Being an endangered species, hunting is strictly regulated and most furs come from Asia or Africa. Colors include brown, cherry, black, and beige.

A very rare and unique kind of shoe leather, mainly used by the cowboy to make his boots.

CAMEL LEATHER

Well, I’m not sure why you want to make shoes out of camels. The animal must first die naturally and is found mainly in Africa and parts of Asia. Camels are an important part of daily life in these areas and are valuable to the locals!

Leather has a texture that is resistant to abrasion and scratches, but can be treated with suede to make it softer. Often. It is very soft and elastic and is mainly found on the court.Rarity means that pure camel shoes are extremely rare.

Interestingly, camel skin has 10 times more fibers per square inch than cowhide. We usually encounter camels in extreme desert climates, which is important for camel conservation. When it comes to colors, tan, caramel, and desert orange seem like natural choices.

Hard to find matching images, but here is an example of camel leather shoes.

camel leather shoes

very interesting suede like texture

CHICKEN LEATHER

We live in a time when real chicken leather is considered exotic skin. Although there are many chickens in the world, we have to admit that they are not the first animals that come to mind when it comes to leather goods, let alone shoes.

Chicken leather appears to be durable, tactile and versatile. The texture is the part that makes it more exotic — some really luxurious items using this leather!

Shoes require regular and proper care. This makes it soft and won’t crack or become brittle. Moisturizers are essential to prevent damage, as there are no natural oils to protect dead skin.Leather honey seems to be a good and effective solution. Only bags and accessories. But this is what fur looks like

Genuine Chicken Leather

Green Chicken Leather | Very Interesting Specimen

Deer Skin

The term “deer” includes many animals of the same family. It includes everything from caribou to elk to moose, to name a few.

Deerskin is generally a very soft material. Some say he’s one of the softest leathers, fitting wonderfully on feet and hands. In addition, the skin is supple and prone to scratches and tears, making it unpopular with many shoemakers. Very interesting from the wild animals that inhabit all over forest areas in dangerous environments. This leather is breathable and thin so your feet won’t sweat. However, it does not like rain or water, so be sure to soak your shoes in it.

White Deerskin Shoes

Types of Leather for Shoes | White Deerskin Brogues by Shoepassion

Eel Leather

Eels are long, slender, smooth fish that come in many sizes. People eat them, but they also make leather goods from them.

Most eel skins come from Asia, especially the Philippines and South Korea. No scales, looks very thin and fragile

Because the fish is so thin and relatively small, multiple skins must be used to create shoes.

You can see the peculiar streaks on the seat, but personally I dislike all the designs there. Remember this is a fish. Leather needs moisturizing and care.

Bernard Black Eelskin Lace-Up Dress Shoes

KUDU

Kudu is an attractive leather that comes mainly from African antelopes.

Its appearance and tough properties make it an ideal material for tough boots. These are wild animals with bruises and bushes and thorns that beat against the skin. This creates a very distinctive pattern on the skin, with light particles and medium weight. Because of this, everyone’s skin is different.

Carlos Santos Kudu Boots

Carlos Santos Kudu Boots Noble Shoes |The discontinued

Sueded Kudu, on the other hand, is super smooth and flawless. Tricker’s and Viberg make very famous kudu boots.

Hint: Impalas are also wild animals with similar characteristics.

two when purchasing Giant Kudu leather goods.

Lizard Leather

A broad category containing several different species. The famous lizard leather comes from iguanas, tejus and giant komodo dragons.

Hide typically comes from the abdomen of an animal and has small tiled markings. In addition, lizard leather has excellent gloss and uniformity, and has good color development. Some even use the back of the leather (horned back) to create an overall fashion statement boot.

Lizard leather has the advantage of being a bit like crocodile or alligator, but at a much lower price.

Los Altos Teju Lizard Derby

Los Altos Teju Lizard Derby | Image by Arrowsmithshoes

OSTRICH

For those who don’t know what an ostrich is, come on. But did you know that you can make meat, giant eggs, and of course shoes? is. This is due to the visible “bumps” on the surface of the leather.

It has the best features you could ask for. Soft, supple, durable and tough, resistant to rot, abrasion, cracking and drought

What more do you want? However, they are quite expensive and make excellent boots. Be careful not to stretch too much.

Mezlan Ostrich Derby Shoes

Mezlan Ostrich Derby Shoes | Image from Pinterest

Fun Fact: Size and frequency depend on the origin of the leather and the age of the bouquet. The most luxurious part is on the feet.

Sharkskin

Sharkskin is rumored to be the toughest of all leathers and resistant to abrasion and scratches. Leather with a unique texture that is different from shark. Some skins are harder than others, but the general consensus is that sharkskin is impenetrable and not ideal for hot climates. Several types of “raised” areas are seen to receive. The top is lighter than the bottom, creating a mottled effect with linear grain. Sharkskin has incredible tensile strength due to its long fiber structure, making it an excellent work his boot.

Paolo Scafora Derby Shoes With Shoe Tree

Paolo Scafora Sharkskin Derby Shoes |

READ REVIEW!

Lasts longer with frequent moisturizing, conditioning and cleaning. Beware it is very expensive.

SNAKESKIN

Another complex category is snakes.

Several species are included, but the most common are pythons, rattlesnakes and anacondas.

Python is popular and most durable for its unique scale pattern and color. Although it can be dyed multiple colors, natural snakeskin is usually a mixture of white, black and brown. Depending on where the leather is cut, it has different properties. An example is cutting the back or belly of a snake. The latter method is often preferred by rattlesnakes to accentuate the diamond pattern on their skin.

Project TWLV Python Boots

Snakeskin is most prominent in women’s shoes, but it’s also (pun intended) making its way into the world of menswear. Super comfortable and soft snake skin is commercially farmed. Still, even though it’s a pretty big fashion statement, it’s always a good idea to keep it in mind.

Shoe Leather Types — Something for Everyone

Finally done! If you’ve made it this far, well done! You deserve a gentleman cookie. As you can see, the list is quite large. In fact, during my research, I found many other leathers, mostly in exotic categories, such as zebra and salmon skins.

The moral of this article is that each leather has its own characteristics and appearance. Some are more comfortable, while others are more durable and softer. For ordinary gentlemen, calfskin and suede are best suited. Shell cordovan, on the other hand, is for enthusiasts. These will accompany your daily meetings, walks and activities and will never let you down. A basic wardrobe should consist of the main categories of shoes.

Exotic Conundrum

Most leathers in the Luxury Exotic category tend to be for flamboyant personalities and those who want to stand out. It’s also not the first choice for business people if you work in a noisy, particularly conservative workplace.If you were a middle-level IT or engineering person, would you wear alligator shoes?It makes sense there is not.

However, there are some that are more delicate and perfect for everyday use without breaking the bank.Deer and kangaroo are probably the best choices because of their softness and paw shape. My advice is to browse through these categories and stick to something similar to calf leather for the first 10 pairs. I hope you too! The world of leather and shoes is wonderful and full of surprises. This is a very comprehensive guide and you don’t have to complete it all at once. You can always come back to refresh your memories and check out our beautiful designs at out website:

www.barcoss.com